The massive Lake Shkodra west of town, 60% of which lies in Montenegro, is well worth a visit. The lake is in fact a former sea bay that was cut off from the Adriatic when sea levels dropped, thousands of years ago. It's the largest in the Balkans, measuring between 370-530 square kilometres, as the lake surface varies between 5 and 10 metres above sea level depending on the season (it's lowest in winter). At 60 metres deep, the bottom of the lake is well below sea level, making it a so-called cryptodepression.

The Moraca river in Montenegro is the main source of water for the lake, flushing the whole lake through about 2-3 times a year. Shkodra's Buna river is the only outlet, flowing 41km down to the sea, joined by the Drini river just below Rozafa Castle. Curiously, in winter when the lake surface drops, this top section of the Buna reverses direction for two to three months, allowing water to flow from the Drini past Shkodra into the lake.

This was a source of pollution for the lake, because of the heavy metals leaked by the chromium and other mines at the Drini's upper reaches. Fortunately, the Drini is improving after the near total collapse of industrial activities in the 1990s, though the KAP aluminium smelter and Podgorica's rubbish tip along the Moraca in Montenegro still cause pollution. It's all generally still within EU standards, and as long as you don't drink from the Drini, swimming along the lake shores and eating the fish is fine.

Nature lovers should bring their binoculars – Lake Shkoder is a bird-watchers paradise, with some 240 bird species inhabiting its shores, including some of Europe's last pelicans. In the water there are 64 types of fish, and on land reptiles, wild boar, rabbits, foxes and even the occasional wolf. The Montenegrin side of the lake is a national park. 

The eastern shore of the lake is marshy with dense reeds, and it's difficult to get a glimpse of the lake from the road, which runs well away from the water. The easiest place to enjoy Lake Shkodra is on the steep, rocky western shore, accessible by car, taxi and a very occasional furgon bus.