As much as we adore the country's plethora of international food options, you can’t beat a bit of homestyle cooking, right? The smells, the sounds, the nostalgia, there’s nothing like it. Most of all, homestyle Croatian cooking is spectacularly delicious. Many restaurants are turning their focus to tradition, and we’ve singled out some of the best spots to sample homestyle food. Don’t forget the appetite.
Buffet Kamenice, Dubrovnik
Gundulićeva poljana 8Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.
Konoba Pjatanca, Dubrovnik
Koločepska 2Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary – real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell.
Konoba Popret, Dubrovnik
Put Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji BrgatFor a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don’t miss out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. It’s an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations, such as a confirmation, first communion or small wedding party.
Blato 1902, Rijeka
Titov trg 8cIn a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.
Girica, Rijeka
Vukovarska 65aNamed after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.
Konoba Ribica, Rijeka
Pulska 30Rijeka's culinary authenticity is at its finest at Ribica, a fantastic fish restaurant in town that thrives on whatever is caught that day, guaranteeing food as fresh as it is delicious. When the sun is shining, the terrace is a gorgeous place to enjoy your meal, although the interior more than holds up its end of the bargain if the weather is less cooperative. The kitchen is open until late from Tuesday to Saturday, making Ribica a brilliant place for a late-night feast.
Tarsa, Rijeka
Josipa Kulfaneka 10, TrsatThe huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.
Mornar, Rijeka
Riva Boduli 5aRight by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch. Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.
Buffet Šimun, Šibenik
Fra Jerolima Milete 17Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards.
Marenda, Šibenik
Nove crkve 9A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.
Zlatna ribica, Šibenik
Ul. Krapanjskih Spužvara 46, BrodaricaLong considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.
Bistro Toć, Split
Šegvića 1Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.
DeListeš, Split
Obrov 8A darling spot in town that focuses on Dalmatian recipes and traditional Split ways of cooking, DeListeš is one of the most authentic culinary experiences you can get in the heart of this wonderful city. The black risotto is the stuff of local legend, but you can’t really go wrong with anything on the menu here. The portions are big and the passion is evident, but that is when eating in Split is at its best. Pay attention to the daily offer too.
Hvaranin, Split
Ban Mladenova 9To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.
Konoba Varoš, Split
Ban Mladenova 17It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.
Kod Joze, Split
Sredmanuška 4Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.
Bistro Pjat, Zadar
Stomorica 10First things first, the service at Pjat is second to none. Energetic, effusive and endlessly enthusiastic, expect to be given all the attention you require beforehand and then left to enjoy the meal once it arrives. What’s on the menu? Well, you’ll be shown the various fish available beforehand, and the offer changes depending on what has been caught that day, so you’ll just have to wait and see. Alternatively, go for the gulaš, because gulaš is always a good idea. Small but perfectly formed. The bistro, that is, not the gulaš.
Jadera Zadar
Brne Karnarutića 4A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.
Skoblar, Zadar
Trg Petra Zoranića 4Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.
Ficlek, Zagreb
Pod zidom 5Just below the Dolac market, it could be said to be the belly of the city. Ficlek in Zagreb means a small piece, which would mean that you should be able to try pieces of traditional Zagreb food here. On the menu you can find ajngemahtec, Zagreb steak, rags with cabbage, stuffed with potato salad, tafelšpic, štrukle, granadirmarš and various side dishes such as mashed potatoes, grinders, bizi rice and so on.
Ježeva kućica, Zagreb
Fakultetsko dobro 8If you are after a place that has good home-made cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and a great surrounding, you will be thrilled with Ježeva kućica (Hedgehog’s House) in Maksimir. Positioned right next to the Maksimir park-forest, this is a great retreat from city’s hustle and bustle as well as trendy restaurants. In a great atmosphere of this cozy new restaurant, one will enjoy the home specialties at affordable prices. Great food and the beauty of the location makes this place truly unique.
Konoba Didov san, Zagreb
Mletačka 11Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend Didova tava, a traditional veal and vegetables dish prepared in pan. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28.
V starem melinu, Zagreb
Junkovićev put 2The spirit of the past is revived through this age old original restored mill, a cultural monument at the preserved farm of Croatian feudal lords on the edge of the Medvednica Nature Park. Now, visitors can eat scrumptious homemade bread baked from milled grain, the exact way it used to be eaten in the 16th century. Old cuisines naturally go best with homemade bread which can be found right here - the authentic antique furniture certainly contributes to the warm and homely atmosphere as well.
Vinodol, Zagreb
Teslina 10A long-standing favourite with locals who want a reliable city-centre restaurant that’s good for business lunches and quick bites as well as slap-up evenings out and family celebrations, Vinodol is one of those unavoidable Zagreb culinary landmarks that never lets its reputation slip. Given its big kitchen and many years of experience, Vinodol can churn out just about anything in the Croatian gastronomic repertoire, from grilled fish to roast lamb and pretty much everything in between. Just looking at the menu is akin to embarking on a culinary tour of the country, with trout from the Gacka River, štrukli from the Zagorje, Dalmatian pašticada stew – and of course Zagrebački odrezak, the ubiquitous local schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese. Outdoor seating in the courtyard is very popular in spring and summer – you may need to reserve.
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