Drive past Shiroke and the road gets narrow and twisty, following the contours of Mount Tarabosh as it plunges down to the lake. You'll pass some well-known restaurants perched on the shore along this stretch and although it's mostly scrubland and olive orchards ending in large rocks along the shore, there are a few small bays for swimming – the lake water is a very pleasant 27°C in summer. The road ends six kilometres further, just short of the Montenegrin border, in Zogaj, a tranquil fishing village that seems stuck in time. With about 40 inhabitants living off fishing, livestock, olive oil, wild mountain herbs and carpet weaving, the village is completely Muslim, and is still mostly unscathed by modern constructions. In the early morning and late afternoon you can see the small boats coming in to land with their catch, and fishermen repairing their nets in the shade.