Picturesque towns
Inland Istria, with its green valleys overlooked by pudding-shaped heights, is famous for its medieval hilltop towns, many of which preserve their narrow alleys and grizzled grey-brown defensive walls. Arguably the most dramatic of these is the summit-straddling town of Motovun, a perfectly preserved medieval townlet with a picturesque main square and gobsmacking views from its battlements. Motovun fills up quickly in summer and is full of shops and cafes serving trippers. Equally ancient near-neighbours such as Grožnjan and Oprtalj are more laid back, but no less photogenic.
Brijuni
Another place where wealthy Romans went on holiday is Brijuni, the offshore archipelago opposite the fishing port of Fažana whose main island boasts a handsome clutch of ancient villas and temples. Centuries after the Romans’ departure the islands were bought by Viennese industrialist Karl Kupelwieser, who turned main island Veli Brijun into a landscaped park complete with luxury hotel settlement, beachside pavilion, and wildlife reserve planned by zoo pioneer and exotic animal dealer Carl Hagenbeck. Top Habsburg aristocracy and the artistic elite flocked to Brijuni before World War I, and it became a popular polo-playing and golfing resort during the inter-war years. Following World War II Brijuni was reserved for fauna of a different kind: Yugoslav ruler Josip Broz Tito built a summer house on the island of Vanga, while communist functionaries stayed in Kupelwieser’s former hotels. Now a national park (you can stay on the island or enjoy a day-trip from Fažana), Brijuni remains a unique example of partly natural, partly man-made paradise, stocked with plants and animals from all over the world and offering a strong whiff of history at every turn.
Mount Učka
Right on the border between Istria and the neighbouring county of Primorsko-Goranska, the mountain ridge of Učka is an enduringly popular target for hikers. The 1394m peak of Vojak offers absolutely stupendous views of both the Istrian interior and the Bay of Kvarner which stretches out to the south. Just east of the summit, at Poklon, a brand-new Visitors’ Centre will offer tourists a multimedia display detailing the flora, fauna and geology of the Učka Nature Park, as well as information on how to explore.
Roman palaces at Medulin
Primarily known for its long sandy beach and shallow paddler-friendly waters, the town of Medulin south of Pula has an important historical claim to fame. Spread across the lush green peninsula of Vižula just north of the beach are the ruins of an ancient Roman palace complex, comprising seashore colonnades complete with ancillary buildings, and a small port where supplies of wine and victuals were unloaded. It’s an evocative spot, suggesting the admittedly rather enticing idea that Medulin was an elite resort a full 2000 years before the modern era of sun-loungers and sun-tan lotion. A path leads around the peninsula, passing several snazzily-designed wooden pavilions where visitors can rest, take snacks, or inspect fragments of floor mosaics. During the tourist season, virtual reality goggles can be hired from a kiosk at the entrance to the peninsula providing visitors with an enhanced idea of what the Roman-holiday experience might have been like. A short visit here and you’ll soon be measuring up material for your new toga.Food & Wine Festivals
The Asparagus Festival in Lovran, taking place throughout the entire month of April, celebrates the local wild asparagus, prized for their unique flavor from the mix of sea and mountain air. Enjoy fritaja (asparagus omelet) and other savory and sweet specialties at local restaurants. The festival’s highlight is a giant fritaja made with 1000 eggs, 30 kg of asparagus, and pancetta, along with a cultural and musical program. A true celebration of spring!
Vodnjanska Spaleta / Spaleta Dignanese
A gastronomic extravaganza in Vodnjan that takes place on Easter Monday, this fabulous event is all about the delights of Istrian dry-cured pork shoulder. There are other delicacies, of course, but pork is king on this beloved day,
Cod Festival
The little village of Fažana is an apt location for the annual Cod Festival on April 21, which showcases the many different ways of preparing this wildly popular fish. Fažana is located around 12km north of Pula.
Weekend Food Festival
Rovinj is a stunning place to enjoy some good food, and that is precisely what will be on offer at the fourth Weekend Food Festival, held in the Old Tobacco Factory April 11-13. The tagline for the event is “Eat Local, Think Global,” which gives you a good idea of what to expect.
Wine Exhibition Gračišće
This popular wine festival in Central Istria is a significant day on any oenophile’s calendar. The medieval streets of Gračišće provide picturesque surroundings for a day of delightful wine tasting on April 21.
School of Salting Pilchard
The humble pilchard is a much-underrated fish, and this fabulous competition in Fažana is all about giving it the recognition it deserves. Everything from tasting to buying, preparing, learning, preserving and processing is involved. If you like pilchards, this is a must. April 26
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