Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expensive – as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry).

Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06. Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 35/20kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating.

Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.