Sopranos is a little tunnel of a smokers' bar, as if driven into the rough mediaeval stone walls. In the centre of the old-town, it is frequented by dedicated smokers and local originals. With its 1950s-style fake wood tables and the friendly, unassuming service, this is a great place for simple, dirty bar fun with no pretensions or for relaxing with a gazosa (lemonade) from Ticino, Switzerland's italophone southern canton - perhaps at a table on the square.