The woman behind this magical space is Mpho Phalane. On arrival, Phalane greets us with a hug; she has an ease about her that calms, and a beaming smile that makes her instantly likable. Her energy and warmth echo that of the space, or perhaps the space is more a reflection of her. We take our seats and dive into delicious cappuccinos served in handmade ceramic cups on wooden saucers as Phalane tells us how this all came to be.
"Food is about connection, and I am about creating the experiences that ignite the human spirit."
Phalane started her professional career as an account manager in advertising. It was a job, but it wasn't her passion. So she pivoted in a new direction, studying and pursuing a career in marketing. But soon she found herself feeling just as disenchanted. She was in a rut.She’d always enjoyed cooking and hosting gatherings at her home on weekends. She tells us: "I just had a love for it and what it enabled; connecting people and having guests at my table. I come from a family where we’d meet up every Saturday at my grandmother’s house and have a big lunch as a family... and that was always very 'feasty' and abundant." Her mother brought her up on a vegetarian diet and inspired her to be creative with basic ingredients. "I was always ready to taste food and eat different things. Growing up we never ate meat at home. My mom found alternatives and explored a lot of foods, so I started eating a lot of legumes.’
From gatherings at home to catering small functions, word got out about Phalane's delectable food. Soon everyone wanted a taste. She smiles as she recalls: "People started asking me to cook for their private events, so I heeded the call. I did a couple of lunches and events. Then word spread and before I knew it I had a business!" And the name? Phalane laughs and says it’s a question everyone asks, and her answer is simple. "It really saved my life. I was in a rut. It came at a time when I didn’t know that I needed it. And that’s why, simply: Food, I Love You."
By 2014 Phalane was cooking every weekend, selling her gourmet burgers at functions, catering rooftop parties in town, and opening a stall selling bao buns at The Sheds in the 1 Fox Precinct. It was full-on. She'd done some work for the Arts and Culture Trust and, seeing her potential, they recommended her to the University of Johannesburg (UJ) to curate and run a new food space at the Arts Centre. She would need to conceptualise the restaurant and the offering, run it, and host and cater all their events.
It all happened very quickly. The restaurant business was new to Phalane, and she excelled. However, the workload involved in running the restaurant at UJ, along with all the events, was huge. "It was insane, I couldn’t keep up," she tells us. "I knew very little, but I learnt a lot." She says the pace left no space for creativity and churning out food on such a large scale wasn’t something she wanted to do.
In 2018 she found a space at Victoria Yards, where she could throw herself into curating the kind of culinary offering and experience she'd yearned for. "The business became more focused in terms of the kind of space we were playing in, who the audience is, what we enjoy, what kind of work we do, and how we became associated with conceptual work," she tells us. Everything started to fall into place and she finally had time to pause and reflect; to focus on her vision and aspirations. And that's how her legendary harvest table came to be.
The Joburg crowds flocked in, revelling in the inclusive experience: sharing food and tables, connecting with new people, and sharing stories. The harvest table reflected the creativity she saw flowing through Victoria Yards, a bounty that spoke to everyone and brought people together. She explains: "Food is about connection and I am about creating experiences that ignite the human spirit."
"I story-tell through my food, drawing inspiration from the South African diet and some of the food prisoners ate... It's food that makes you feel good, that’s wholesome."
From there huge opportunities presented themselves; she began collaborating with corporates aligned with her ideology, giving her a platform to showcase her culinary concepts to larger audiences. She travelled, experienced the new and the different, evolved and thrived, gaining perspective and the confidence that she had something authentic to offer. It was around 2019 that conversations about opening a space at Constitution Hill began and while the idea excited her, the notion of running two restaurants seemed overwhelming.
Then Covid-19 happened, obliterating many businesses in the hospitality industry, including Phalane's. She used this time to reflect and in 2021 made the difficult decision to leave Victoria Yards and embark on a new venture at Constitution Hill. She's done a phenomenal job.
Built by President Paul Kruger in 1893, the Old Fort, on the edge of Braamfontein and Hillbrow, was a prison for white men. It was built to segregate and confine, so Phalane chose to invert the building's original purpose, turning it into a space that connects, integrates, and encourages love. She has taken a cold, bare room, embued in a very dark part of our history, and transformed it into a vibrant, eclectic, and striking setting that invites and inspires.
Taking centre stage are two long tables that ensure everyone dines together, feasting on the bounty of the vibrant dishes presented by her team. She tells us about her menu: "I story-tell through my food, drawing inspiration from the South African diet and some of the food that the prisoners ate... It's food that makes you feel good, that’s wholesome. We try to be as inclusive as possible, so our grains are gluten-free, we change up the protein daily, and always have vegan-friendly options."
Phalane shares her thoughts on the South African food landscape: "It’s about openness; it’s about everybody having a voice at the table because all stories matter, and it’s about being able to respect and recognise where each of us comes from. I was born and raised in Soweto so I can’t talk to a very rural or indigenous knowledge, but I stand firm in what I do know, garnering more knowledge as I go. At the core is sharing our knowledge, inviting everyone to add a layer and their story."
She invites us to sample the day's harvest table and what a feast it is! Millet, mushroom, crispy onion, and spinach salad; fennel salad with freshly cut orange slices, butter beans, and crispy-fried roti chips; grilled brinjal with her famous homemade red pepper chutney and yoghurt; charred turmeric cauliflower, snoek and sweet potato fishcakes; dhal curry with madumbe (or taro); and herb-roasted chicken.
It's heavenly, comforting, moreish, textural, and fresh. And the fishcakes are unbelievable. Phalane tells us it was one of her first recipes. We ask if she has a favourite dish and she smiles: "I love everything that’s here; it’s how I eat. I want crunch, freshness, raw, cooked veggies, and a little bit of protein." We chat and eat, soaking up the sun slowly moving across the space, enjoying the serenity that makes it okay to linger.
Hearts and stomachs full, we ready ourselves to leave. On parting, we tell Phalane that her creation is remarkable. She reflects and responds: "There aren't many spaces like this in Joburg. I want to hold onto that and amplify it in different ways; we need spaces like this where there is an element of pause."
Food I Love You is open Mon – Fri from 08:00 – 17:00; 11 Kotze Street, Braamfontein. The venue takes group bookings for weekends and private events.
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