Between 1563 and 1830, Bratislava’s St Martin’s Cathedral was a place of massive importance for Hungarian kings. It was here that all coronations took place after the basilica in Székesfehérvár was destroyed by the Ottomans. Today the spire of this Gothic triumph dominates the Old Town skyline (complete with a replica of the crown jewels on top), but the structure itself is struggling to cope with modern life. St Martin’s Cathedral remains a hugely important piece of regional history, and a beautiful one at that.