Without a doubt the Tsarevets fortress is Veliko Tarnovo's highlight attraction. With only pedestrian access one can peacefully wander around the ancient ruins, walk along the breathtaking fortress walls (if you don’t suffer from vertigo) with views onto the surrounding hills of Sveta Gora, Momina Krepost and the overgrown Trapezitsa, at the foot of which is the picturesque old artisan’s quarter of Assenova Mahala. 
The main sites of the fortress are clearly identified and the visitor can follow a gentle path around. Children are free to run, clamber and discover, the only place where caution is advised is at Execution Rock at the northern end of the fortress. As the name suggests a fall from here down to the Yantra River would be nothing less than fatal. Past the palace ruins one comes to the top of the hill where once the Patriarch’s complex stood. The restored patriarchal church of the Ascension takes visitors by surprise with its stark modern interior and the dramatic murals painted by Teofan Sokerov (his self portrait is to the right of the altar) in 1985. Not to everyone’s taste, they depict the history of Bulgaria from the Second Bulgarian Kingdom onwards (1185) and on the floor is a symbolic tombstone with the names of the Bulgarian Kings. For an additional fee (Adults 2 leva, children free) you can take the scenic elevator up the bell tower of the church to get a panoramic view of the surrounding area.

Before leaving the fortress or continuing down to Baldwin’s tower, there is the opportunity for a refreshment stop at the café, away from the traffic of the main road, to absorb all one has seen or to just rest the feet. You will also find acceptable toilet facilities here. Children might be entertained by a puppet show giving some pre-recorded history about Tsar Kaloyan (younger brother to Peter and Assen) in various languages or they can pose for photos dressed up in mediaeval costume.
The fascinating history of the fortress is dramatised in a spectacular sound (but not narrative) and coloured light show, which takes place at night on national holidays and on the holiday of Veliko Tarnovo itself (March 22).

Tip: There is not much shade on Tsarevets so during the summer months it is best to avoid the midday heat.