Don’t be put off by the wacky name (it loosely translates as ‘In the Watermelon’s Sugar, there or thereabouts). This is a fine modern cafe on a dinky street not far from the centre, a coffee-friendly joint with plenty of excellent cakes to accompany the beans. Extremely popular with the youthful locals, V Melounovem Cukru is also conveniently close to the train station.