Grimy and devil-may-care, it's the cheap beer and lots of it, in bottles and a few on tap, that's the main reason to head to this cellar bar in a shady courtyard. Local regulars and Erasmus exchange students populate the place, some enjoying the basic bench seating just outside the door, even during the winter. If you don’t like the metal or reggae or whatever’s playing, ask the barman to change it.