Just when you think Lake Koman can't get any better, there's the stunning Shala river canyon with its dazzling blue water branching off the lake, around 12km or a 1,5-hour ride from the dam. The canyon can only be accessed by tourist boat from Koman (eagerly used by package tourists bused in from the coast in high summer) or by kayak from nearby guesthouses. As the river gets ever more twisty, narrow and shallow, a wide pebble beach comes into view where a beach bar, sunbeds, parasols and a zipline are available together with three accommodation options. Squint and you'll swear that the steep rocks and lush vegetation look just the 'The Beach' in Thailand - though the river here originates in the high alps near Thethi and can be quite cold. The beach area varies depending on the level of the river, and you may need to walk the last part to the beach, so bringing water shoes is a good idea. Up to 40 boats to Shala from Koman depart between 09:00-10:00, and after a day of splashing around the river, the day trippers head back to Koman around 15:00, allowing silence to descend on the gorge for the overnight guests. It's wise to contact Myriam Boat Tours to book a package including transport to Koman from Shkodra (hotel pickup around 06:30) or Tirana (04:50 from the Gazheli petrol station, Rr. Asim Vokshi).