Perched above the shore of Lake Koman, the 'five seasons' chalets have benches and tables outside so that all you need to do is gawp at the lake views. The comfy wooden cabins fir 2 or three persons and come with en suite bathrooms and air conditioning. Fantastic traditional meals are served communally beneath the grapevines in front of the main house, a little higher up the slope. A great base for swimming from the rocks shore, kayaking into the Shala river gorge, hiking up the mountain or wandering over to the tiny village on the next plateau. Owned by the Berisha ferry company, parking at Koman and getting here is easily arranged; on departure they can even bring your car along on the ferry that comes to pick you up.