Hometown darling Illy's own-brand café is as trendy and popular as you would expect of a venture from one of the world's top coffee producers. The long narrow bar is an exercise in functional chaos, with a crowd of jostling patrons shouting orders on one side and uniformed baristas running around on the other, but somehow everyone getting what they ordered posthaste. Find it in the pedestrian area just behind the Church of St Antonio Nuovo.