Sure, you can visit the museums, you can explore the cafés, but if you really want to understand life in Tartu, you have to go where the people shop: Tartu Market Hall. Housed in a square, imposing, riverside building that dates to 1938, Tartu Turg, as it’s called in Estonian, is filled with vendors selling fresh meat, excellent sauerkraut and pickles, as well as fresh local fish from the Emajõgi River, Lake Peipsi and Lake Võrtsjärv. Its outdoor extension Tartu Farmers Market is just as lively - find it in Soola 10, across Riia street between the bus station and the Sadamateater.