Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Sarmatism, if you're wondering, was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. Free on Fridays