Easy links to our absolute favourite places, as selected and regularly updated by our editor. 

About the Editor

Living the nomad life before the internet was even switched on, Damascus In Your Pocket writer and editor Jeroen van Marle grew up in England and the Netherlands before working his way across the world for In Your Pocket and other travel publishers, spending several years each in Bucharest, Warsaw, Prague, Kuala Lumpur and Johannesburg before settling in Berlin. He was introduced to Syria's charms several years ago and is now a regular visitor, dedicating his time in Damascus to personally testing all the hammams he can find. Contact him via jeroen.vanmarle (at) inyourpocket.com. 
 

Al-Hamidiyeh Souq

The Al-Hamidiyeh Souq is the beating heart of the old city. Built in the late 19th century under Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II, this vaulted iron-roofed thoroughfare is more of a sensory assault than a simple shopping trip. The ceiling is famously peppered with tiny holes, the result of machine-gun fire during the 1925 Syrian Rebellion, which today create beautiful, dusty shafts of light that illuminate the chaos below. It is the kind of place where you can buy a wedding dress, a kilo of cumin, socks mocking the former dictator and a dried lizard for in your tea, all within a ten-metre radius.

Natonal Museum

An impressive warehouse of human history, the Damascus National Museum has everything from clay tablets with the world’s first alphabet to sculptures from various civilisations and a stunningly decorated 3rd-century underground tomb from Palmyra. The museum was protected reasonably well during the years of civil war, with fighters guarding it immediately after the fall of the regime in 2024. It has now reopened with a limited exhibition displaying the collection highlights, some signposted in English. The highlight of the museum is the spectacular 2nd-century Dura-Europos synagogue, painstakingly moved here and reassembled with its vibrant frescoes intact. The lush, statue-filled museum gardens are great for a break under the palm trees.

Umayyad Mosque

The crown jewel of the city and one of the oldest, largest, and holiest sites in the Islamic world, the Umayyad Mosque is an essential experience. Built on a site that has transitioned from an Aramean temple to a Roman Temple of Jupiter – which provides the current massive walls – and then a Christian cathedral, the mosque houses a shrine said to contain the head of John the Baptist. It is a living room for the city; while foreigners gawk at the shimmering 8th-century gold mosaics depicting a lush paradise, locals gather on the vast, polished marble courtyard to chat, let their children run, nap, or simply soak in the silence. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside of prayer times but must be modestly dressed; robes are available for bare arms, legs and female heads.

Hammam Nur al-Din al-Shaheed

A small, ornate doorway in the Al-Bazouriya spices souk leads to these elegant public baths, built during the reign of Nur al-Din Zangi in 1169, now state-owned but still family-run. After decades of use as a warehouse in the last century, it was revived as a bathhouse again in 1979. The beautiful domed relaxation hall features raised, carpeted platforms for relaxation, a marble fountain and a TV showing the news, switched off during calls to prayer. The friendly staff guide you through the bathing procedures in the somewhat shabby but ancient facilities. Men only.

Hassahn's Shop

Hassahn's family-run antique and crafts emporium is a must-visit in the old town, located in a charming Ottoman-era shop building right next to the Ummayad Mosque entrance. The tiny shop has a wonderful assortment of Aleppo soap, fine tablecloths, artwork, ceramic tiles, and postcards, and it may stock Ross Burns's superb book Monuments of Syria (2000). The counter acts as a repository for the business cards of the shop's customers, including diplomats, foreigners, and tourists. 

Damascus Opera House

Inaugurated in 2004, the Damascus Opera House is Syria's premier performing arts centre. The strikingly modern complex houses three distinct theatres: a 1300-seat opera hall, a 600-seat drama stage, and a smaller multipurpose hall. It's home to the excellent Syrian National Symphony Orchestra and hosts productions ranging from classical opera to traditional Arabic music. The programme is usually announced a month in advance via their Facebook page. Tickets are inexpensive and can only be purchased at the box office in the building. 

Bakdash Ice Cream

A legendary ice cream parlour in the Al-Hamidiyah souk, serving melt-in-your-mouth Syrian booza, a stretchy cold treat made with milk, sahlab orchid-root flour, rose water, mastic tree resin gum and thin-sliced pistachios. They have been pounding the gooey dessert into shape with wooden bats here since opening in 1895, and it's a must-lick stop along your souk exploration.

Khan Wahoud

The Khan Suleyman Pasha Inn, an Ottoman caravanserai from 1736, has been meticulously restored. Its centrepiece courtyard is crowned by two huge glass domes that replace the original stone cupolas, lost long ago to earthquakes. The stunning Khan Wahoud restaurant and its tea room opened here in early 2026, and soon boutique hotel rooms will complete this new cultural hub. The restaurant serves fine Ottoman-inspired dining in the courtyard restaurant.

Naranj

Right at the point where the Street called Straight is the least straight, this authentic, upmarket, traditional Syrian restaurant has been a classic choice among foreign visitors since 2007. Named after the fragrant bitter orange citrus trees that are popular in the courtyards of the city and with a nice rooftop terrace, Naranj is a great place to sample large platters of Syrian classics such as lamb with bulghur, stuffed wine leaves, sword-skewered kebab or juicy lamb manakish.

Al Burj

One of the best kebab joints is Al-Burj, 'the tower', a small but very popular takeaway place with street eating, just north of Bab Touma city gate. You'll need two of the chicken or lamb shawarmas to fill you up, in normal or traditional samoon bread, or add some of their mezze or pastries to your order.

Abu George Bar

A legendary Damascus bar, Abu George ("father of George") opened 75 years ago and has been serving drinks to generations of thirsty patrons – many of them scribbling their names on the walls. A night out in the cave-like bar is dark, cosy and unforgettable. Good luck finding an empty spot for your signature!