Like many vibrant Balkan cities, Skopje is very much a destination for the flâneur. Wandering about without a care in the world, exploring the city’s hidden courtyards and venturing off the beaten track will all be rewarded with unexpected encounters with some fabulous buildings and a random sampling of its friendly inhabitants. For those who prefer more orderly tours, Skopje provides plenty of choice. Most hotels can arrange guided tours, plus there are one or two free walking tours that crop up from time to time if you look around. Visitors with hangovers and hip replacements will be delighted to learn that there’s also a daily tour on an open-top red bus (tel. +389 23 17 29 20) departing from several locations around the city.