Kraina Szeptów

This veteran, two-floor candlelit bar distinguishes itself as one of the few remaining Cracovian hangouts that caters to smokers - with the spacious upstairs, including a second bar, popular with young people who can't be parted from their vape pens. That said, it's surprisingly well-ventilated - enough to make you stay well past the point of saving your clothes from the wash. It also maintains the spirit of the smoky Kazimierz cafe/bars of the early 00s with its shadowy charm and flopdown furnishings. Washed in a golden glow, the nostalgic, twilight atmosphere is enhanced by murky mirrors and large sepia prints of 20s peepshow starlets - a voyeuristic twist for miscreants who like their beverage with a view of ladies getting dressed (or un-). The wide range of alcohol, particularly gins, makes a lengthy list of cocktails available (though most patrons are happy with a Żywiec), and the warm, cheeky environs are perfect for illicit liaisons and - as the name states - breathy whispers. Take a peek.