Not the easiest to visit, but we don’t plant the ‘most beautiful place in the country’ flag in the ground that often. Počitelj is just about as picturesque as Herzegovina gets, a village built into the side of a hill 30km south of Mostar, just 4km north of Čapljina. Private transport is a must, although much like Kravice you can try your hand at getting to Čapljina and then hitchhiking (or even walking) the short distance back. What awaits is a village of serious beauty, perfect for wandering the narrow streets that lead up the hill to the top of the village, where one of the region’s great views awaits. The Hajji Alija Mosque sets the scene, as the magnificent Kula stretches high in the background. Pocitelj can get quite busy in the summer — as can everywhere in Herzegovina — but it is also somewhere that can occasionally feel entirely yours.