Discernable from afar by its three distinct rounded 1000-metre-high hilltops from which you can see the Adriatic on clear days, Gllava village, 30km north of Memaliaj and along the old trade route from Berat to Ioannina, is one of the oldest in Albania, with roots in the 5th century CE and popping up in church documents in the 11th century. Later converted to Islam and a popular centre for the Bektashi faith, it played an important role in the 19th-century Albanian renaissance. The Italian army used the area as a base and communications centre during their ill-fated attack on Greece in 1942. Nowadays it's a peaceful, remote place known for its organic produce, honey and medicinal herbs. Nearby in the forest of Buza village, the remarkable Shkembi i bardhë or White Rock is a lone stone that towers 15m up between the trees. In Selckë e Vogël, the modest, 260-year old Ura e Gigovës bridge over a river that never runs dry is also worth wandering by.