Podgórze's primary necropolis for over a hundred years, the Old Podgórze Cemetery is/was the resting place of the formerly independent city's most distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th century, the cemetery's grand arched gateway is set back from a busy intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture of 'God the Father.' Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of the most notable graves have been lost during the boneyard's turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski - leader of the 1846 Kraków Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of Podgo's most beautiful park - reposes. Closed upon reaching capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled a third of the cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even more grievous was the site's reduction to a fraction of its original size during the construction of al. Powstańców Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or strewn haphazardly about. Unfortunately, due to this major road the cemetery is not what we would describe as 'peaceful,' but its nostalgic character and vanished beauty still possess some charm. Get there easily by taking tram number 24 to 'Podgórze SKA.'
Comments