Located in the historic cellars of a 14th-century tenement house, Nowa Reforma (The New Reform) takes its name from the influential daily newspaper that was printed in these basements from 1893-1928. Since 1991, this space has been associated with 'Chimera' - one of the first Kraków restaurants to serve light meals, fresh juices and salads in the form of a budget buffet. Today, the Chimera cafeteria continues to operate in the gorgeous year-round ground-floor garden, while the cellars have been renamed 'Nowa Reforma' to differentiate the two. Head downstairs for a more refined dining experience of 'reformed' Polish cuisine, including game dishes (goose, venison), regional cheeses, fresh seasonal vegetables and delicious home-made desserts. The beer and vodka selection is quite unique, as is the list of Moravian, Slovenian and Moldovan wines. Most outstanding, however, is the cosy, romantic and artistic atmosphere Chimera has been known for since the 1990s. With Gothic arches, intimate booths where wine barrels were once stored and an original 14th-century fireplace, plus plenty of literary, secessionist and surrealist art touches, this remains one of the most warm and comfortable cellar restaurants in Kraków. While students and travellers flock to the courtyard garden, local art mavens and academic owls favour the downstairs, where it's easy to feel like you're somehow closer to the city's cultural heart. Offering a fine dining experience devoid of pretension, but rich in history and art, this is essential Kraków. Underrated.