One of Kraków's longest-tenured venues, Drukarnia remains the first and last port of call for anyone out on-the-piss in Podgórze. What started as a corner dive bar and jazz club has evolved and expanded over the years, refining itself along with the neighbourhood. Today, all traces of that smokey dive bar are dead, and most of Drukarnia resembles an upmarket American lobby bar, focussed on fancy cocktails and tapas. That's not necessarily a put-down - the design is smart, the drinks and food (including breakfast) are fine, and there's plenty of sunny sidewalk seating in the summer. A separate bar occupies the corner entrance, and that's where you'll find the loyal locals, slightly perturbed that they have to step outside for a cigarette, but still prefering the cosier, pub-style vibes of this front room. Lastly, the massive downstairs is open on weekends when anything from jazz concerts, to stand-up comedy, to drunken dance parties might be taking place. Overall, it's not the cult watering hole it once was, but rather a please-all venue that wins with location and variety.