After fraught protests, a complete teardown, period of mourning and something close to acceptance - this beloved open-air cafe-bar is back, and asking for acceptance. Following what was in hindsight a completely senseless rebuild, this iconic venue is doing its best to recapture what once made it one of the most popular (and largest) beer gardens in Kraków. Although locals will say that the soul of the place is missing, business is booming and Bunkier more or less resembles its old self, despite a slightly more modern makeover. With a brilliant location directly on the Planty, the smoking section (which represents almost half the seating) has survived, the beer is fresh, and the spotty table service (which can't be circumvented) is just as frustrating as ever. Obwarzanki (Cracovian bagel) sandwiches are back and though it's unclear if the kitchen will scale up to its previous offer, the long menu is packed with the hot and cold caffeinated and alcoholic drinks. Perfect for any type of rendezvous, whether its a private English lesson, casual date or daydrinking session, Bunkier is as popular as ever. Attached to Kraków's best contemporary art gallery, via its resurrection, Bunkier Cafe may have actually proven itself to be the more important local institution. Best off all, plenty of heaters ensure that this outdoor space stays open all winter long.