As local as they come, if you're driving through Zelenika you can't help but notice the smoke billowing from the chimney of this traditional Balkan grill down a side street just after the bridge. For a real treat, try either the jaretina (goat), jagnjetina (lamb) or hobotnica (octopus) 'ispod sača', which is slow roasted with vegetables under a large metal bell. Mouthwatering food and a wonderful atmosphere.