Dungeon-like and lit only by candles, make sure you remove your shades (hello, Bono) before entering this underground fairytale setting. Wine and tapas are consumed against a backdrop of brick walls, dripping candles and wine bottles... setting the scene for a gloriously atmospheric night. Order a couple of tapas plates to start with, then decide on your favourites. No reservations are accepted, and it is always busy, so arrive just ahead of your preferred eating hour.