Find the barmaid behind the dangling business cards and foreign money, locate a place to sit on one of the strange benches facing away from the stage, and away you go. A living legend, Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal has live jazz every night from traditional to slightly more modern jazz, and is packed regularly with a mix of aficionados from ageing jazzheads to the occasional passing punk. Free to get in, the beer is a bit expensive, but the trip is always worth the effort. There’s nothing quite like it.