When is a café not a café? In Hungary anyway, when it's a milk bar. This cheerfully retro, cheap and cheerful 1960s throwback is a reminder that not everything was grey and glum under goulash socialism. Over the counter service with cakes and muffins and milkshakes and icecreams, as well as perfectly good sandwiches which they toast as you wait. Slide onto the formica breakfast bar and watch the world and the number 4/6 tramline go past you on the ring road outside.