Hotel restaurants haven't traditionally made their way into these guides, but we make exceptions when the quality is, well, exceptional. And so here we are with ÉS Bisztro, which is part of the Hotel Kempinski (as is Nobu, we might add). We don't think anyone could have a beef with that, especially after lunching or dining on one of their eye watering rib-eyed steaks. Truly succulent with just enough fat quotient to make them that little bit sinful, their Austrian beef rib-eye steaks are the centrepiece of the menu, where beef is the star player. And it is certainly treated with the respect it deserves: After maturation, their beef is sliced, coated in suet, then perfumed in basil and lavender, and sprinkled with aromatic herbs such as thyme and tarragon. You get the picture. Though there are fish and vegetarian options, ÉS is a dreamland for carnivores. Figuring that, if we were truly going to indulge ourselves over lunch, we might as well do it properly, we began with their goose liver paté with Tokaj wine, served with stewed fruits and brioche. Service is impeccable, as you have every right to expect. If you have any room left, or are in the area on another day and just fancy something light and quick, the Kempinski's newly opened ÉS Deli (delicatessan) is adjacent.