Most visitors to Costes, a Michelin star winner, will elect one of their set 4 or 7 course menus. These are priced between €75 and €110, if served without wine. But if, as the French food writer Brillat-Savarin said, you believe a meal without wine is like day without sunshine, their international and Hungarian wine card is compulsory. All else is as should be for a restaurant in this category, with smartly dressed tables, quality silverware and glassware and formal, attentive service. It's the small touches which make a difference, such as amuse bouche between courses, and the chef-signed menu to take home. Pricey, but what do you expect?