A winsome little town just 19 miles northeast of Bihać, Bosanska Krupa packs a lot into its admittedly compact city centre. In many ways this town is a microcosm of this part of the world, as an old fortress defiantly stands above that religious trio of mosque, cathedral and church, all as the confluence of two seductive rivers plays out in the background. The phrase seems all too loaded in the modern age, but there is something magnificently Bosnian about Bosanska Krupa. This area is famous for its watermills and fishing houses built on stilts, but it is the charm of the modern centre and the prepossessing nature of the rivers and islands that really attracts. The late, great Branko Ćopić was born nearby, and the poetry of his words lives on silently in the walls and streets of this undeniably underrated little town.