A Belgrade institution since 1864, Tri Šešira (Three Hats) is the restaurant that best encapsulates the Bohemian magic of Skadarlija. ‘Bohemian’ generally means ‘traditional food with local musicians playing around your table’ in a Belgrade sense, so strap in (not literally) and go with the flow. The moving orchestra can be a little pervasive, but the novelty takes some time to wear off.