No, it’s not in the prettiest square in Genoa and its imposing neoclassic façade doesn’t promise great things either but, when you step inside, and when you’ve gotten over the gold and sparkling marble and the sheer dimensions of it all you realise that you’re somewhere special: every Genoese artist you have ever heard of is there. Cambiaso, all the Carlone family, Maragliano, Strozzi, Barabino, Fiasella, De Ferrari, Piola… and some Van Dyck thrown in for good measure. Baroque might not be your thing (and this is seriously Baroque) but you can’t help but gasp in awe. The church had much more humble beginnings, founded by a group of Franciscans in 1520. When they were unable to go on with the construction the wealthy Lomellini family stepped in, under the direction of Taddeo Carlone in 1591, enlarging and beautifying for almost half a century. The work was continued by Andrea Ansaldo in the early 17th century and, despite bombing during WWII, restoration has ensured it still remains the biggest, the richest and most talked about church in town. Sunday Mass at 10:30