The very definition of the oft-copied 'Cracovian cellar bar,' this legendary venue has been around since 1956 when renowned eccentric Piotr Skrzynecki (see his monument a couple doors down in front of Vis a Vis) founded its famous literary cabaret. A local cultural phenomenon, performances (in Polish, naturally) still take place every Saturday at 21:00 and are popular as ever; best to book yourself a ticket by calling 12 421 25 00. Jazz, tango, swing, art exhibits and other events are also frequent, but at its heart this divey dram house is a scruffy safe haven for local artists, academics, bohemians and moon-howling booze-hounds who feel right at home amongst the clutter of oddball art on the walls and rickety furnishings. A classic, and seemingly tourist-proof.