Perhaps the only space on the Rynek to survive Kraków's tourist boom with its scummy integrity intact, Vis a Vis is a timeless local favourite happy to tell foreigners to piss off while indulging pensioned Polish drunkards until their heads hit the beermat. Long the cheapest beer on the Rynek, the price of a pint keeps slowly rising, but the grumpy service remains free. Send your most competent compatriot to the bar to make the orders while you watch the local barflies watch you back. An intriguing social study and one of the few remaining remnants of the 'real Kraków' left on the market square.