Johannesburg

10 Labels to Watch at SA Fashion Week at Mall of Africa – Spring/Summer 2024

20 Sep 2024

Now in its 28th year, South African Fashion Week (SAFW) remains the country’s premier and most exciting showcase of top local design from up-and-coming and well-known designers. This year's Spring/Summer 2024 (SS24) runway promises to be just as groundbreaking. It's all happening at the Mall of Africa in Waterfall City, a place where fashion takes centre stage, featuring over 300 local and international stores. SAFW will host 10 shows over three days featuring 30 collections.

Check out our list of the top 10 must-see labels at this year's SAFW, which will run from Thu, Apr 18 – Sat, Apr 20. See all the important information about dates, locations, and tickets here, and for the full schedule, go here.

Mr Price New Talent Search

Mr Price New Talent Search 2023 winner, Cyla Gonsolves (centre). Photo: Cyla Gonsolves via Instagram.

Kicking off SA Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, as is tradition, is the Mr Price New Talent Search. The retail giant hosts the competition for emerging designers to showcase their talent to industry experts, fashion buyers, the media, and the public. This year features last season's winner, Cyla Gonsolves, as she launches her first full collection. She'll be joined by some new faces such as Jessica-Ann Shepherd, creative director of Oddity, a Cape Town-based label, who's keen to show what the brand can offer outside of signature knitwear via a collection of quirky prints, elements, and upcycling techniques. Katlego Mokwana of Mother of Gao’s collection is inspired by leaning into her individuality and originality by using her natural dying techniques. focus on natural dyeing techniques, patchwork, and botanical prints. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Joburg-based designer Nhlanhla Masemola draws inspiration from corporate culture with an Afrocentric twist in his SS24 collection. 

Beach Cult

Beach Cult's swimwear and apparel feature trademark prints designed by local artists and illustrators. Photo: Beach Cult via Instagram.

Beach Cult is a popular swimwear and apparel brand founded by Joanna Hedley in 2011. The brand uses sustainable, recycled materials to create luxury swimwear with one-of-a-kind prints for those who have a deep love of the water. Her latest SS24 collection is a collaboration with the artist Ana Kuni, known for her large-scale paintings and murals; the collab's themes reflect on spiritual growth and are inspired by natural elements such as the sun and moon.

E_Mania

The Shiya Ngane dress from E_Mania. Photo: E_Mania via Instagram.

Kuhle Phumzile Zondo, a finalist in the 2023 Mr Price New Talent Search, joins the ranks of South African fashion designers for the SS24 season with her label, E_Mania. Her designs focus on celebrating femininity and luxury. Her upcoming collection, titled Canvas Couture: The Body, My Art is inspired by the collaboration of two graphic illustrative designers –  one from South Africa and the other from Brazil. The collection highlights the cultural similarities between Africans and African-Brazilians, starting with an African perspective, moving to the viewpoint of African-Brazilians, and culminating in a digital print that seamlessly combines both designs.

Ephymol

Ephraim Molingoana of Ephymol is no stranger to SAFW having debuted his first collection in 2002. A Soweto-born but Free State-raised international model and self-taught designer, he is poised to unveil his latest menswear collection at this upcoming fashion week. Growing up amidst the cultural melting pots of Soweto and the Free State imbued him with a rich tapestry of influences. With a focus on meticulous cuts, bold tailoring, and intricate patchwork, Ephymol's garments tell a story of resilience and transformation.

Franc Elis

Hailing from two generations of trained fashion designers and with 20 years' experience in designing and manufacturing unisex clothing, Fabrice Moyo of Franc Elis was raised by fashion. Franc Elis's menswear collection for SAFW looks to redefine military wear and was inspired by the change in the political landscape on the continent and its links to military coups. 

GugubyGugu

GugubyGugu's signature name motif features on a variety of clothes and accessories from the label. Photo: GugubyGugu via Instagram.

Gugu Peteni always knew that she wanted her label to be gender-neutral, stating, "I never really understood the need to answer the 'is this menswear or womenswear' question – if you like it then it’s for you." Peteni studied fashion and textile design at Nelson Mandela University where she was introduced to one of her favourite materials, mohair, which features in her upcoming collection. Initially, she had no idea what it was or that she was living in the mohair capital of the world, Gqeberha, but she loves the versatility and sustainability of the fibre.

Isabel de Villiers

Isabel de Villiers's fun and size-inclusive range. Photo: Isabel de Villiers via Instagram.

Isabel de Villiers focuses on creating figure-flattering, minimalistic yet textural designs that speak to the diverse body shapes of women, ranging from size 32 to 48 – something we don't see often enough at fashion week. Her collection includes laser-cut dresses and effortlessly chic jumpsuits, each piece crafted to empower and embrace the individuality of every wearer.

MINA by Shaazia Adam

Shaazia Adam showed great courage by launching her unisex brand, MINA, in 2020 during the Covid-19 pandemic. MINA creates accessories with simple and practical designs that can be worn day or night. The label focuses on slow fashion, making its products in-house with limited stock and offering customisation in colour. The latest collection for fashion focuses on menswear and is inspired by the journey of freedom and being true to oneself. Adam is one of three Mozambican designers at this season’s fashion week in a new collaboration between Mozambique Fashion Week and SA Fashion Week.

Sun Goddess

African luxury encapsulated by Sun Goddess. Photo: Sun Goddess via Instagram.

Married fashion duo Thando & Vanya Mangaliso began their fashion journey by selling skirts out of the boot of their VW Beetle in 2000. In 2001, they launched Sun Goddess with the idea of capturing South African traditions through unique handiwork, fabrics, and colour palettes, thus defining African luxury. This extended to The House of Sun Goddess with handcrafted bags, leather goods, eyewear, signature textiles, footwear, and hats. The Sun Goddess SS24 collection is inspired by the warmth and strength of the African sun.

Thabo Makhetha

Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana's Basotho heritage is a huge fashion inspiration. Photo: Thabo Makhetha via Instagram.
 

Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana is the designer behind the womenswear label that bears her name. Born in Lesotho and raised in South Africa, her latest collection for SAFW is called Dikeleli. It's named in honour of her grandmother and her Basotho heritage, and promises to be an elegant and thought-provoking celebration of 200 years of the Basotho nation. The collection delves deep into the rich history of Basotho textiles, paying homage to a time predating the now-famous Basotho blankets when the Bantu clans were renowned for their intricate work with leather. 

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