For reasons that remain forever surreal, a brass likeness of the head of the late Frank Zappa can be found on the top of a steel pole in a courtyard just west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created by the sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011), who once churned out Socialist Realist masterpieces for his paymasters in Moscow, the bust was the first monument to the man to be erected anywhere in the world. And before you ask, Frank Zappa has no connection with Vilnius or Lithuania whatsoever.