Teta Roža

Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.