It is almost impossible to know where to begin when describing Athens these days. A city with perhaps more history than any other that has nevertheless become just as known for recent events as those which took place thousands of years ago.

This year however, something different is coming to town: documenta, Kassel's amazing art festival, breaks new ground by bringing its entire entourage of artists to Athens. From March until June the ancient Greek capital will be abuzz with new art, with contemporary culture and perhaps a different perspective on how to move forward.

For Athens marches on. Greece marches on. As one wit put it not so long ago: 'The Greek state may be screwed, but the Greek people are fine.'

And fine they are, particularly if you are paying in cash. Capital controls may no longer be in place (and they never applied to foreigners anyway) but we do advise you to keep a healthy wad of euros on you at all times: in this city more than any other in the European Union, cash really is king, and so are those holding it.

Where to spend it? That's where we come in. Publishing vaguely useful city guides across Europe for 25 years, In Your Pocket is back in Athens and back to stay. Packed with the usual, essential mix of restaurant, bar, cafe and club recommendations we also dig deeper into the very fabric of this city that keeps on bouncing back.

Here's to Athens. Enjoy it.